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Peter Gagan
oil - (read 5586 times) Reply
10 January 2017 02:06 I have a 1960 Manx Norton M30 I ride on the road. It has a Newby belt drive and clutch, coil valve springs, and a Kabota tractor alternator hidden in the primary. Castor based oil is illegal here, and I am down to my last pint. Alternatives?
 
Mark Burgmann
Right size carburetor for Manx? - (read 23498 times) Reply
28 December 2014 01:29 Hi Ken The short stroke 30M 1955-1956 T5GP 1 9/32" not 1 9/16"? 1956-1961 1 5/16" going by my Amal list no. 601/3 issue No. 3. Best Regards Mark
 
Paul
Is this a manx? - (read 120969 times) Reply
25 September 2011 06:10 I am starting to restore a old Norton I have had for 37years, and have a question about the frame number. This is what I have vertical line of numbers 53319 I am assuming serial number, then horizontal line starts J1 and it is getting hard to read the rest of the model number, Is there any way to tell from just the serial number??? The right upper frame tube has a indent that looks like it is for the bevel drive of a long stoke motor. is the Manx the only bike to have this indent? the upper rear transmission mount is not welded to the frame( normal for a 54). Being a J make it a 1954 and the serial number agree with that, It seems it could be a J11M2 M40 Manx or a J122 dominator 88 (why would a dominator need the indent?). I just do not want to start and find out later that it was a Manx, I might take a different direction rather than build it back as a Triton/Weslake
 
Ken McIntosh
Right size carburetor for Manx? - (read 75521 times) Reply
30 May 2011 03:08 Manx Norton Carburettors for 86mm bore 500cc models, from the original Amal listings. 1954-56 500cc Manx uses 1-9/16" T5GP Amal 1956-60 500cc Manx uses 1-5/16" T5GP Amal 1961-63 500cc Manx uses 1-3/8" T5GP2 Amal
 
Mark Burgmann
Right size carburetor for Manx? - (read 75560 times) Reply
29 May 2011 11:02 Hi Ken 1 9/16 should this have been 1 5/16 for the short strokes? Best Regards Mark
 
manx1955
Cams and cam follower wear - (read 65038 times) Reply
29 May 2011 10:33 Hi Just a reply on the oil used, tried every thing from Shell semi synthic to Belray. Oil type is not the problem rather I believe oil quantiy to the cam box. Ken my engine is fitted with the adjustable oil supply to the cam gear and you said to me many years ago that I should chuck it and fit a standard relief valve. I think I will do this as I am thinking of firing the old girl up again. I also may fit a new oil pump as the original looks a bit tied. I will make a run over to NZ in near future to discusss in person. Best Regards Mark
 
noel Saward
Dating a works engine? - (read 70931 times) Reply
23 December 2010 09:46 Thanks to Geoge Cohen, my engine has been dated as a 1937 model which was destined for the Isle of man. 350cc machines from 29 to 39 used a separate lot of numbering. From 29 to 36 they used 1000 to 6200. From 37 to 39 they used 6201 to 10700. Yes, 5 numbers were used from 1939. The letter code was used from 1946 onward. Hope this helps others.....regards Noel
 
Rob Lovelace
ES2 clutch - (read 157584 times) Reply
23 November 2009 08:21 the clutch basket has fibrous inserts in it and the whole thing moves in and out on these so the the basket will hit the rear steel and the first steel plate. How do overcome this? Am I missing something somewhere. rob.lovelace@yahoo.com
 
Benjamin Gradler
Article on Manx engine servicing... - (read 163148 times) Reply
20 July 2009 03:38 There is a website with a lot of material on Cooper autos called 500race.org which has a pdf file you can download that describes a complete teardown and overhaul of the Manx Norton engine. This is the web address to the article which is taken from a 1957 MotorCycling magazine: www.500race.org/Marques/Servicing%20the%20Manx%201.pdf
 
Benjamin Gradler
Cams and cam follower wear - (read 84765 times) Reply
19 July 2009 05:25 I wonder what kind of oil this guy was running.

It would be fun to run Castrol castor bean oil like they did in the old days, and a lot still do, but there must be something better out there by now.

I called the Barber museum one day and talked to their mechanic and he said they run Mobil synthetic motorcycle oil in their bikes.

Not too long ago most of the additives to prevent wear on flat-tappet engines was taken out of most off-the-shelf motor oils as most autos now have roller-tappets.

There is the Rotella oil for diesel engines that is supposed to have all the old additives in it still.

With the cost of Manx parts, whatever oil is in the engine better be damn good stuff!

Then there is viscosity, originally they specified a lot of straight grade oil for bikes with rolling-element bearings, but many now are running multi-vis in them. Whatever viscosity, having the oil good and warm before using a lot of throttle and revs has to be a good idea.......
 


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